Brooklyn Eats Recap

Last week, the 12th Annual Brooklyn Eats festival was held at the Brooklyn Navy Yard while the wind and rain swirled around outside. A somewhat difficult venue to get to, once inside there was plenty to keep guests busy. As mentioned in an earlier post, there were dozens of restaurants, bars and other vendors here to provide a well-rounded taste of Brooklyn. From soul food to slow-roasted ribs there was plenty of variety. Unfortunately, living in Brooklyn I was a little underwhelmed by the quality of the food. It didn't seem representative of all the great food available in this food-centric borough. A few top notch restaurants like Buttermilk Channel and Palo Santo were participating, but what about the top spots in Park Slope, Williamsburg, Carrol Gardens and beyond? A number of Mexican and soul food spots provided unnecessary repetition, but when it came to dessert I welcomed the many confections available.

I made my way through the somewhat confusing two floor layout, sampling a good amount of the savory dishes and chatting away with some of the chefs and owners. My clear cut favorite was Buttermilk Channel's Cider-glazed Baby Back Ribs with Housemade pickles. The tender, fall-off-the-bone rib seemed to be a crowd favorite and I personally thought the accompanying bread and butter pickles were delicious. More tasting notes below:

• Abigail Cafe and Wine Bar: Mini Meatballs with Roasted Squash and Pomegranate Glaze. The meatballs were good, but nothing spectacular and the squash was too mushy.
• Bussaco: Duck Confit and Brussels Sprout 'Bubble and Squeak.' Tasty, tender, but underseasoned. More importantly, new chef, Kevin Adey is preparing his own charcuterie, has lowered prices and plans for future beer dinners.
  
• Fonda: Mollette con Adobo (essentially a rich, braised pork). Quite spicy, with a deep smokey flavor. This dish made me want to check out the restaurant.
• Palo Santo: Bluefish Tacos. Delicious tacos, but suffered from the ridiculous amount of oil from the fish and braising liquid, rendering the freshly made tortillas soggy and broken.
• Scottadito Osteria Toscana: Proscuitto Sfizi. Unfortunately, this was the worst bite I had all night, so bad I actually spit it out. Impossible to chew with no bite to it whatsoever.
  
• Umi Nom: Stir Fried Rice Noodles. A bit bland and disappointing compared to their Chinese sausage at another event a few months back.
• Vue Restaurant & Lounge: Roasted Filet Mignon with Caramelized Onions, Bacon and Everything Crust. The same exact dish at the Metromix Hot Plates, not as good this time due to the temperature.
• Waterfont Ale House: Southwest BBQ Turkey Meatloaf Slider with Corn-Black Bean Salsa. This bite looked promising, but was way too smokey. It was cooked with a smokey beer and way too much cumin was used for my taste.

As for the sweet stuff, everything I had was quite good. From the Red Velvet Cupcakes at The Cakeman Raven table, to the trio of sweet small bites from The Sweet Tooth (my favorite was the Red Velvet Cheesecake.) However, one dessert really stood out from all the rest, the "Big Apple" Trio from the New York City College of Technology culinary students. Three aspiring pastry chefs created this dish with the guidance of their professors and it was eye opening. A layer of apple cider pana cotta, pomagranate and apple (cobbler?) with a maple chip and financier to top it all off. The flavors of fall really came through in this dish and technically it was spot on. The event was topped off with a delicious scotch cocktail called the Spicy Pete from Clover Club and an array of beers from Shmaltz Brewing Company, Sixpoint and Brooklyn Brewery.

Thanks to the kind folks at the Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce for putting together this event and having me as their guest. Additional photo recap below.

The King's Carriage House: Be Forewarned

I don't want to go into some lengthy bashing review of any restaurant, even when I can safely say I just had one of my worst dining experiences in NYC, but I feel the need to vent and hopefully save some future diners from a mistake. I've eaten at a wide range of places, from the corner deli to white linen, fine dining establishments, some meals excellent, others not so much. However, a recent family party (for 13) at the King's Carriage House on the UES left me in complete shock. Worried initially by the dated decor, empty restaurant and menu that seems to have been from 30 years ago I kept my composure and my hopes up. It was a family party anyway, time to celebrate, catch up and enjoy each others company.

Easier said than done unfortunately. From the seemingly out of the freezer hors d'oeuvres to the vinaigrette drenched salad with slimy poached pears, the meal was off to an unfortunate start. Topped off by gruff, clueless servers in an overly cramped room and I was crossing my fingers (as were other diners) that the entree and wine would make up for everything. Too bad for us. Overcooked Filet Mignon, duck breast with un-rendered skin, and pan-seared salmon that was probably the only thing done to a satisfactory state. To our astonishment the server never even asked anyone how they would like their steak prepared. Moreover, the duck, beyond overcooked, was served slimy skin side down on a bed of salty vegetables and cut in half to reveal just how poorly cooked it was. It was a scary example of improper technique and made me think the kitchen was devoid of all culinary knowledge. All topped off by overflowing wine that would have been better served in a dorm room than in a restaurant. Shocking for any restaurant, especially at this price.

We all persevered though, laughing, talking and putting aside the food (literally in my case). Of course the meal was topped off with being rushed out of the private dining area by those stern faced servers, but at the very least I can say I've taken one for the team. How this place has earned 4/5 stars on Yelp (only 5 reviews) and a score of 21, 25, 23 in the 2009 Zagat guide is beyond my comprehension, but it certainly begs the question, how much can you trust Zagat nowadays anyway?
251 E. 82nd Street, New York, NY 10028, 212-734-5490, Reservations - Probably Not Necessary, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($40-70/person)

Bill's Bar & Burger: Deserving of the Hype?

This year more than any past years has been all about burgers (and pizza and hot dogs). Everyone's favorite meal for lunch, dinner and anything in between. We've seen a $26 burger become all the rage at Minetta Tavern. Shake Shack released plans for world domination and burger mania from Burger Bashes to articles on the art and classification of burgers have filled the food media landscape. With that said, it's no surprise that Bill's Bar & Burger, from Steven Hanson's BR Guest Restaurants, was welcomed onto the scene with open arms. What is surprising is how quickly writers across the city are ready to claim it the best burger around, if not a close second. Of course, with this hype comes the desire to check it out, so last week I dropped in, after much back-and-forth tweeting with the restaurant (@billsnyc by the way). I met Wined & Dined as well as other eager burger fans, while Josh Ozersky just happened to be entertaining the Zagat's over burgers and beers.

The menu focuses on burgers, but you can also get a hot dog or grouper sandwich. Personally, I would find it difficult to order a fish sandwich amongst a sea of griddled meat patties and dogs, but apparently it is pretty good. We were seated in the back room, a very simply decorated space, with checkered tablecloths, flat screen TVs and no lingering stale beer smell from previous tenant, The Hog Pit. Our servers were surprisingly attentive considering how busy the restaurant was, but they were a bit too attentive. It became a bit awkward when we placed our order while two overly eager servers starred us down. Of course they were doing their job, but they can probably ease up just a tad and will likely do so as they get more comfortable.

Moving on, the burgers. We ordered the Sunset & Vine, Classic with cheese, Fries and Veggie Fries. The burgers are all cooked medium-well, a somewhat unfortunate cook temperature, but likely done since the burgers are just so thin it is hard to meet individual requests. As can be seen on Serious Eats, the burger is prepared with the smash technique, the process of taking the loosely packed ball of meat and smashing it against the griddle to really ensure a generous char. The burgers arrived, the Sunset & Vine with cheese, lettuce, tomato and special sauce all on a squishy sesame seed studded bun. The burger hangs over the edge of the bun and at first glance looks a little beat up. It's so thin that the edges are really just crispy bits of ground beef. Diving in, it was good. Great? Not at all. I tried it with the vegetables, then without. With some of the sauce on, with some of it taken off. When it came down to it, I just didn't get much meat flavor no matter what the combination. Was it tasty, absolutely. The saltiness of the beef and American cheese combined with the mayo-bbq sauce based special sauce all worked well, but I was left wanting more meat, particularly something more juicy as the thin patty was rather dry. Same feelings on the Bill's Classic with cheese. While the salt level was a little lower, this burger is the same as above without the special sauce, it was still lacking for me. Don't get me wrong, the burger was tasty and if in the area I would definitely come back, but this is no destination burger in my opinion.

The sides were also a bit frustrating. Simple fries, lightly seasoned were good, but far from great and underseasoned, bland and watery veggie fries. The latter, just a poorly executed version of vegetable tempura that couldn't be saved with ketchup or mustard. In addition, Disco Fries and Onions Rings are also available and may be the better choices. Looking to really go for the trifecta (and accurately make a Shake Shack comparison) we ordered up a Black & White Shake. The shake was quite delicious, served with extra wide straws it is easy to slurp this up quickly so be forewarned. Other offerings include Oreo, Peanut Butter Banana Fluff and a variety of alcohol infused versions.

While there were some major flaws for me with the burger and sides I would say Bill's is a legitimate stop, but not close to overtaking Shake Shack as the best burger in the city. Next time I visit Bill's I'll have to go for the Fat Cat, a gut-bomb of a burger, with two smaller patties, caramelized onions and American cheese all sandwiched between an English muffin (not my bun of choice). Certainly not a simple, understated burger that I generally opt for, but I can't imagine it doesn't taste good.
22 Ninth Ave., at 13th St., 212-414-3003, Reservations - Accepted, Price - Inexpensive/Moderate ($6-20/person)

(photo courtesy of Thrillist)

12th Annual Brooklyn Eats Festival is Tomorrow!

Looking for something to do tomorrow? Well if you like eating, drinking and Brooklyn head over to the Brooklyn Navy Yard for a chance to sample bites and beverages from a wide variety of Brooklyn establishments. Tickets are not cheap, running for $125 at the door, or $110 purchased prior here. The event begins at 6pm and ends around 8:30pm so scrap those dinner plans you had and join in on the fun. Per the press release participating restaurants, bars and vendors include:

Restaurants:

A Bistro, Abigail Café and Wine Bar, Abigail Kirsch Stage 6 at Steiner Studios, Abu’s Homestyle Bakery, A.O.C. Bistro, Aunt Suzie’s Restaurant, Bussaco, Buttermilk Channel, Café on Clinton, Cake Man Raven, Downtown Atlantic Restaurant, Fonda, Fresh Fanatic, Get Fresh Table and Market, La Stalla, Los Pollitos II, Madiba Restaurant, Magnolia Restaurant & Bar, Maria’s Mexican Bistro, Mazzat, New York City College of Technology’s Hospitality Management, Oaxaca, Palo Santo, Pilar Cuban Eatery, Provence en Boite, Scottadito Osteria Toscana, Soul Spot, Soul Sister Quisine, The Sweet Tooth, Tangs Natural, Trattoria Mangia, Trois Pommes Pâtisserie, Waterfront Ale House

Bars:

Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn Roasting Company, Brouwerij Lane, Clover Club, Gotham City Lounge, Hena Coffee, Sixpoint Craft Ales, Southern Wine and Spirits of New York, Michael-Towne Wines and Spirits

Institutions:

Brooklyn Artists Waterfront Coalition, Brooklyn Center for the Performing Arts, Heart of Brooklyn, Museum of Contemporary African Diasporan Arts, Patricia F. Robinson Music Studio, St. Ann’s Warehouse

Note: A portion of the proceeds will go to the Brooklyn Eats Scholarship Fund.

The Vanderbilt is Here to Stay

Prospect Heights is one of the burgeoning neighborhoods in Brooklyn. With new restaurants, bars and condo developments it is quickly becoming one of the new hot spots in the borough. Well, now with the addition of The Vanderbilt, Prospect Heights should be on everyone's map. The Vanderbilt, named after the street it resides on, Vanderbilt Avenue, is the second project from Michelin-starred chef, Saul Bolton of Saul in Cobble Hill. This huge corner restaurant has filled a spot previously occupied by a hardware store, but now remnants of the previous tenant are nowhere to be found. Officially opened this past Friday, we decided to give it a shot even though we are always weary of a restaurant on it's opening night.

Arriving around 7:30pm, the restaurant was already quite packed. The long, attractive bar sits on the right hand side, while small tables and banquet seating cover the left wall. Beyond the bar area, the open kitchen is revealed to a gorgeous marble bar top, where we ended up dining, and then a back room contains a quieter dining area. Seating somewhere in the neighborhood of 100-120 diners, this is huge by Prospect Heights standards, let alone anywhere in the downtown Brooklyn area. With a 20-30 minute wait on opening night, I can guarantee the neighborhood is excited about this addition.

In terms of food, The Vanderbilt's menu is all about sharing. The small plates range from $4-16 and provide a few bites to slightly smaller than a full portion of food (depending on your appetite). The menu is broken into a number of sections, such as Hors D'oeuvres, Charcuterie, Vegetables, Fish, Meat and Desserts. Based on the menu online and at the restaurant, it looks like things may change seasonally, or they may expand once they are at full capacity in the kitchen. For our meal we ordered 6 dishes, including the Orielles de Christ (Crispy Pig's Ears), Serrano Ham Croquetes, Duck Rilletes, Chicken Liver Pate, Smoked Jagerwurst and Grilled Spanish Octopus.

We were very pleased right off the bat with the food. The crispy pig's ears were like upscale pork rinds and came with a small pipet of pique, a fiery red hot sauce. Only about 5-6 an order, the $4 price tag is not bad for a quick snack. The croquettes ($7) were also delicious with their crispy exterior and creamy, porky interior. At 5 to an order, these little oval shaped bites were lightly covered with a delightful smokey aioli. At this point, with all of our dishes ordered and a few already down, we were quite impressed with the service. Even on opening night, with a crowded doorway and up to an hour wait, everyone kept their composure, a promising sign for the restaurant.

One thing that immediately excited me about the restaurant was the prospect of housemade charcuterie. No place in the area (with the exception of Franny's) does this, and The Vanderbilt quickly made us a fan with theirs. The smooth, rich pate ($8) was paired with pickled onions, a lightly dressed frisee salad and toast points. Not being a big pate fan, my girlfriend was in love with this dish, a great compliment to the restaurant. My favorite dish, however, was the rilletes ($12). Arriving in a jar, the portion is rather large and is accompanied by a deep purple fig jam and more toast. After scooping off the fat, we found ourselves eating the duck straight from the jar, it was just that good. One thing to note, you will need more toast, the 3 pieces we received were about half of what we actually needed. Last in our charcuterie adventure, was the jagerwurst ($10), one of the many sausages prepared in house. With a noticeable smokiness and heavy snap in the casing, this was one good sausage. A bit chewy on the inside, the pairing of German potato salad was perfect for this dish. The potato salad was coated in a grainy mustard and helped make this one of the more substantial dishes on the menu (a good option of you are looking to keep the cost down).

Last up, we ordered one non-meat dish, the octopus ($9). Perhaps an indicator of the strengths of the restaurant, or just a matter of our taste, this was our least favorite dish. The grilled octopus possessed none of the char I look for in grilled octopus and it was served, sliced, atop room temperature cranberry beans. While not an unsuccessful dish, I think it could have been much better. Next time we will look for another fish or vegetable dish to help offset the heavy intake of meat.

Trying to abstain from drinking much, we only had a glass of red ($5-12) and a sweet, refreshing Black Cherry Rickey ($9 for all cocktails). A well-rounded beer menu consists of 7 draft beers, all at $6 a pint, and 13 craft bottled beers from $7-17, including one of my favorites the Stone Ruination Imperial IPA 22oz ($10).

With such a well executed menu, affordable pricing and a simply gorgeous space, The Vanderbilt will definitely find quick success here in Prospect Heights. Considering it was opening night, I'm shocked to say this was one of my better dining experiences I have had in Brooklyn while living here for nearly 5 years. I was so impressed, I may just end up back next week.
570 Vanderbilt Ave, Brooklyn 11238, 718-62309569, Reservations - Not Accepted, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($30-50/person)


(photo courtesy of Metromix)

Meat Haven at Minetta Tavern

While I am a little behind in posting this review, nothing from my meal at Minetta Tavern has been forgotten. Since day one Minetta has been a hit, as well as a difficult reservation to come by. With Frank Bruni's 3-star review back in May the restaurant became even more popular and more difficult to get into. With a little help from one of my friends I was able to score a prime time reservation for my girlfriend's birthday a few weeks back.

Entering Minetta you feel as if you have immediately been transported to another time, if not only a place far away from the commotion that is Mac Dougal Street and the West Village. Yes, much of the decor remains from the original, but is polished. An attractive interior from the wood details, light fixtures and checkerboard floor. A packed bar provides an opportunity for a drink while waiting, or even a quick bite, while a few tables sit directly across the way. The first room of the restaurant is a crowded spot, so be prepared for a tight squeeze. My recommendation, try to sit in the back room as it is easier on the ears and a bit more spacious. Also note, if you have a reservation be prepared to wait a few minutes before being seated. We had a 7:30pm slot and were not seated till closer to 8pm.

Once seated we scanned the large drink menu, full of cocktails, wines by the glass or bottle, beer, scotch and other beverages. After a subpar cocktail at the bar, it was way too sweet, I opted for a glass of Oban, while my girlfriend chose a glass of red wine. A basket of room temperature Balthazar bread was placed on the table along with a creamy butter while we placed our orders. To start, the Salt Cod Stuffed Squid ($13), followed by the Dry Aged Cote de Boeuf for two ($96, but now $104) and a side of the Pomme Anna ($9). The squid arrived with piquillo peppers, olives and preserved lemon and made for a very satisfying starter. Tender and filled with a properly salty, creamy salt cod, we were both very pleased and loved the pairing with the preserved lemon. While we were enjoying the squid a server actually brought by our steak before it was cooked, a nice elegant touch.

After a second round of drinks were ordered the pièce de résistance arrived, a gorgeous platter of meat: 32 ounces of dry-aged ribeye and 3 hefty marrow bones. The steak had a wonderful char, but not as intense as one may find at Peter Luger's. Already sliced off the bone, there was a generous amount of fat running through the medium-rare steak, a bit too much for our taste as it meant less meat, but it was probably for the best. With the initial bite we both looked at each other in awe, our brows raised and mouths forming a faint smile. This was, and may be, the best steak we have ever tasted. Hard to directly compare to a steakhouse steak, it was tender, juicy and melted like butter in our mouths, but the char was perfect. With the addition of the pool of juices on the bottom of the plate and a spread of bone marrow across each bite, this dish IS a meat lovers heaven. Complimented by the ridiculously indulgent Pommes Anna this was pure delight. The potato side easily rose to my favorite side dish for steak, thinly sliced potatoes arranged in a cast iron skillet and baked, the crispy top revealed a luscious, buttery center. This dish didn't reach greatness from the potatoes, but rather all the butter used to prepare it.

After a rich, salty steak and potatoes we opted for the somewhat light Grand Marnier Souffle for two ($16). Choosing this over the chocolate souffle may have been a mistake, but it offered a slightly lighter alternative. The airy, puffed top gave way once our spoons hit it to a creamy center and was sweet with a strong essence of orange from the liqueur. It was definitely very good, but next time we go chocolate. To go with the souffle we ordered a glass of port and muscato respectively, both a fitting, sweet pairing to the meal.

The atmosphere, service and food all lived up to, and even exceeded, the hype in some cases. While a pricey endeavor, this was for a special occasion and it is definitely easy to cut some dollars off the bill if you watch your drinking. It sure is one of the hottest tables of the year, perhaps more for the hype and potential celebrity element, when actually it should be all about the food. I look forward to my next visit to Minetta where I'll surely be looking to order the burger (but will be tempted by the steak again).
9 Minetta St, New York, NY 10012, (212) 475-3850, Reservations - Absolutely Needed, Price - Expensive ($50-100/person)

(photo courtesy of MinettaTavern.com)

Little Limp at Veloce Pizzeria

Eager to try one of the many new pizzerias that sprouted up across the city in 2009 I ventured to Veloce Pizzeria, very much enjoyed by former NY Times critic Frank Bruni. With Sarah Jenkins, of Porchetta fame behind the menu I was excited to check it out. I had heard mixed reviews from friends and blogs, but overall Veloce was recommended. Known for their "personal" square pizzas with a crust somewhere between Sicilian and grandma style, each pie is about 12 inches. Depending on how hungry you are one pie can be split between two people or you can go all out and eat a whole one by yourself.

There are somewhere in the neighborhood of a dozen pizzas available and occasional specials, like the clam pie Bruni loved, are written on a chalkboard. In addition, a variety of salads and appetizers are available, ranging from a simple arugula salad to crispy fried calamari. We opted to start with the calamari, which was paired with a light arugula salad and lemon wedges. The calamari was lightly fried and paired well with the peppery greens and lemon juice. The lemon juice really brightened up the dish and brought it all together, making us forget that there was no official sauce available.

As for the pizza we chose the porchetta sausage topped pie, knowing that Chef Jenkins has a way with pork. The pizza arrived in the baking dish, cut into 4 generous slices. Taking advice from Adam Kuban on Slice, we took note to eat our pizza shortly after it arrived at our table as the crust quickly goes limp. Well, Adam was right, once we made it to our second slice it was easy to see the difference in consistency. Initially I enjoyed the crust, it was firm enough to provide a nice crunch without seeming overcooked. The topping was quite good, but seemed to be lacking something, salt perhaps? The rosemary and garlic were quite evident in the sausage. Once you get to the second slice there is a noticeable difference in the crust so be advised.

As for wine, you can order carafes beginning at $16 or bottles which go to $75 a bottle. Our carafe, while not remarkably tasty, was a steal at $16 for roughly 4 glasses.

Overall not the best of the new wave of pizzerias in the city, but certainly not the worst. Veloce Pizzeria suffers from the transition the pizza goes through once it is removed from the oven, but it is a worth a trip if you are looking for a non-Neapolitan pizza experience. Would I go back? Perhaps, but it is not a destination spot by any means.
103 1 Ave, New York, NY 10003-2951, (212) 777-6677, Reservations - Available, Not Needed, Prize - Moderate ($20-40/person)

Quick Bite: Chiles Rellenos Torta from Chavellas

Park Slope and Prospect Heights have been lacking quality Mexican restaurants, dominated by mostly bland, overly Americanized fare. However, Chavellas has become a neighborhood favorite, with their approachable, mostly authentic offerings, made with fresh, flavorful ingredients. Located on the outskirts of Prospect Heights, it doesn't get too much foot traffic, but they are open for lunch, dinner, brunch and deliver.

Stopping by a few weeks back for lunch I opted for a Chiles Relleno Torta ($7), thinking how could a pan-fried, cheese-stuffed chile sandwich not be good? Well I was right, this torta was not lacking flavor by any means. The slightly toasted soft roll had a smear of black bean spread and was topped with lettuce, tomato, a light tomato puree and of course the chiles rellenos. As you can see in the picture it is pre-sliced, making for a nice cross section shot, but allowing the cheese to ooze out onto the plate. It may be a vegetarian sandwich, but by no means is this a light endeavor. A filling lunch or hangover pleaser is more like it.

732 Classon Avenue, Brooklyn, NY, 718-622-3100, Price - Inexpensive ($6-10/person for lunch)