The popular term these days in burger world is "Black Label", the special dry-aged blend from Pat LaFrieda being served a few select spots around the city. Outlets from around the city have been singing this burger's praise since late 2008, from Serious Eats, to The Feedbag to Midtown Lunch. After putting it off for sometime I finally made my way up to Midtown West, eager to try the burger, but also with relatively high expectations for this nearly $13 burger from a seemingly fast food joint.
The bar was set high, and I took a note from the previous visitors and made sure to order it rare, although I did opt for a slice of American cheese. City Burger certainly doesn't look the part of a top burger destination, reminding me more of a mall stand than anything else. Regardless, the burger sizzled on the flat-top griddle while I crossed my fingers for the correct doneness. Before the bag, complete with my fries and "Black Label" burger made its way into my hands I even asked for assurance that the burger was properly cooked. Happy with my trip and eager to sink my teeth into this supposed new kid on the burger block I walked over to Bryant Park and sat down. What I found was not a superior piece of meat, a revelation in what a burger should be, but rather an overcooked, underseasoned waste of a burger. Another bite, another let down.
Determined to get my money's worth, this was nearly a $20 investment with fries and drink, I called City Burger letting them know and they offered to make good on everything, even deliver me a new burger at Bryant Park. A generous offer, and I give them credit for that level of customer service. Eagerly anticipating my properly cooked burger the delivery man showed up bag in hand. Unwrapping the burger like a little kid getting a present, I found my new burger, hoping for some redemption. My hope was squashed, as a bit into a still tasteless burger. It was meaty, but bland and still not cooked properly, more medium, medium-well than rare. I'm intrigued as to why so many other folks have enjoyed the burger, giving it such praise and all, but now I know and won't be returning. I give them credit for trying though.
1410 Broadway, New York City, 212 997-7770, Price - Moderate ($10-20)
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
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4 comments:
You might want to try it at a place that pays the cooks more than minimum wage - go to a real restaurant
i.e. Minetta Tavern?
No need to put me down for checking out a burger spot.
Sorry - didn't mean to come off dickish to you - the ire is toward a place that would ruin good meat - I just would have thought you would have sought out someplace known for doing it right as opposed to this rush it out setup. As I understand it, the Black Label requires cooking it similar to how a steak house would prepare a regular steak - charring, pan grilling and possibly baking - I actually appreciate hearing about your experience there - I haven't been to Minetta yet - nor have I tried the black label but I have had a lot of Pat's other blends and have generally been quite happy - especially at the Shake Shack - I believe the fantastic burger served at lunch at the Little Owl is Pat LaFrieda's (since they are the supplier of the Pork Chop) but I don't think it is the Black Label.
I haven't been to Minetta either, but don't think I can justify spending upwards of $25 on a burger. Also, Minetta's version is true "Black Label" apparently City Burger's is a different blend. Little Owl's burger is not black label, but it is LaFrieda meat, same as Shake Shack and Market Table, plus dozens of others I am sure.
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