I'm very passionate about hamburgers. I am also very particular about them. So when I read the menu at Village Whiskey in Philadelphia, PA I was a little skeptical. Not because of the chef, the famed Jose Garces who's food at Amada was very impressive, but because of the style of the burgers. I like my burgers on the thin side, a la Shake Shack or In-N-Out, but here at Village Whiskey they serve jaw-breaking 8oz meat bombs. This isn't a bad thing per se, but it gave me initial doubts about how much I would like it. Well, after an epic wait, followed by gracious service, I finally had a chance to dig in.
The epic wait all began because Village Whiskey is just plain popular. So popular that they have a bouncer at the door to provide some breathing room to the seven tables and tiny bar inside. Once inside, after about 1.5 hours waiting at a bar next door, the wait continued. However, this portion of the wait was caused not by the restaurant necessarily, but by somewhat inconsiderate diners. Now, this is a hotly debated subject among friends of mine. Is it wrong for a table to take their time at a restaurant knowing full well that people are desperately waiting for their table? Well, no, in my opinion it is not wrong, to a certain extent, but what is wrong is going to a high turnover, intensely popular restaurant and sitting at the table for 3-4 hours, especially when you have had your check for a third of that time. It's one thing to have a leisurely meal, but it is another thing to stretch your welcome even as a paying customer.
Well, this was the case at Village Whiskey. So we watched, talked with the servers and began plotting ways to rid our waiting table of these squatters. For almost an hour we stood there, shocked by the sheer lack of respect for us and the restaurant, our servers even confided in us about how annoyed they were (maybe not professional, but understandable.) Ultimately, the servers were sympathetic and when we ordered a few small bites they sent out a handful of additional plates on the house.
Of the many small plates we had, the Spicy Popcorn Shrimp were delicious and paired with what seemed to be a spicy remoulade sauce. The shrimp were cooked perfectly and had a nice balance of crunchy exterior to sweet, tender interior. Sweet Local Red and Yellow Pickled Beets were paired with a very mild fresh whipped ricotta, black olive tapenade and toasted sourdough. Crispy Tater Tots and Homemade Soft Pretzel Sticks were solid drinking snacks, but the House-Made Cheese Puffs were a bit disappointing.
After all of these small bites we still somehow managed to order the massive burgers. As a table we ordered two Village Burgers with Cheddar, a Whiskey King, a Village Burger with Chevre and a Fried Egg, BBQ Pork Sammy (the menu calls it this, not me!) and two orders of the Duck Fat Fries. My personal choice was the Village Burger ($9), an 8 oz. patty, cooked medium-rare and topped with housemade Thousand Island Dressing, bibb lettuce and tomato all on a sesame roll with melted Jasper Hill Cheddar ($3). It was a towering burger, with juices pouring out of it left and right. The bun held up nicely to the heavy amount of meat and liquid, but the lettuce and tomato were rendered to mush after only a few bites. I was pleased to find the burger seasoned properly, the saltiness coming through in every bite, but would have liked it more had it been just 2 ounces smaller. I give Chef Garces credit though, as a thin burger lover, this was certainly one of the better thick burgers I have had. Just below the Village Burger on the menu you will find another option, this one a bit over the top for my tastes (and budget), but nevertheless my good friend swears by it. The Whiskey King's ($24) claim to fame isn't the 8 ounces of meat, or even the Applewood Smoked Bacon, but rather the thick slab of Foie Gras that crowns this behemoth. It doesn't end there though, as the burger also is fitted with Rogue Blue Cheese and Maple Bourbon Glazed Cippolini Onions. Sound excessive? Depends on your personal taste, but even though I love simple and understated burgers, this was impressive to (at least) look at.
While I was here for the burgers, I did also taste the pulled pork. Tender pulled pork shoulder was piled high for this sandwich and topped with crunchy slaw, whiskey BBQ sauce and served with a side of fried pickles. A good sandwich, I found the pork a bit too sweet for my taste, although it was enjoyed by others at the table. As for the duck fat fries, I had high hopes for them, but I preferred the tater tots as my fried potato of choice.
Judging by the name of the restaurant it is easy to figure out that there is more to Village Whiskey than burgers and fried snacks. The bar offers an extremely, albeit expensive, selection of Whiskeys. From the simple Maker's Mark ($6 for 1 oz) to the vintage Highland Park 25 year ($40 for 1 oz) any level of whiskey drinker can find something here. The drink list is topped off by a selection of creative cocktails ($8-12), about a dozen wines and a variety of beers on tap and in bottles, making it easy to find a drink to pair with your meal.
While a trip to Village Whiskey may run you more than other burger spots in Philly (and NYC for that matter) it is more about the total experience than the burger itself. A combination of solid starters, extensive drink options, stellar service and a sleek space complement the thick burgers, just be forewarned, the wait is long and depending on your schedule and mood it may be wise to stay away during peak times.
What is most interesting to me after my many trips to Philly is the difference in burger tastes between NYC and Philadelphia. While NY used to be about over the top, gut-busting burgers, it seems that there has been a shift to griddled, thin, fast-food style burgers (see Shake Shack, Bill's Bar & Burger, Burger Joint.) Whereas in Philly the trend of extravagant, topping heavy burgers remains. Maybe it isn't something to read into, but there certainly is a difference in the types of burgers diners are craving from city to city.
114 S 20th St, Philadelphia, PA 19103-4451, (215) 665-1088, Reservations - Not Available, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($20-50/person)
photo courtesy Dericious
photo courtesy Dericious
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